I stepped in front of the young elephant and reached back, as instructed, until the tip of its trunk nestled trustingly against my fingertips. Our guide said, “Now you can walk through the forest.” We headed into the trees in single file, I intensely aware of the large animal behind. In front, another elephant padded along. “You can hold its tail,” the handler said. “That’s how they follow each other in the wild.” I watched the swishing tail in front of me and declined.